We headed out in our 7-seater for Exmoor National Park in Devon on the Southwestern coast of England. No one liked being the solo rider in the way back, so we rotated that spot amongst the non-drivers (everyone except me). After a couple of hours, a billion roundabouts, and some dramatic views along the cliff-hugging road, we arrived at our destination: Lynton. Lynton is a village that sits on the cliff overlooking the beach village, Lynmouth. There is a steep road, a very steep walking path, or an extremely steep train car (http://www.cliffrailwaylynton.co.uk/indexb.html) that shuttles people between the sister villages.
Our B&B was a wonderful Victorian home managed by a nice couple and their 9-year-old daughter. Shirley and George were kind enough to let Rachelle and me have our own room and they took the 4-bed suite with Noah and Liv. Using our B&B hosts and the numerous hiking books (Lynton and Lynmouth are called the walking/hiking capital of the Exmoor National Park), we set off for a walk on the coastal path. It was truly breathtaking, especially for those afraid of heights (like George). The path looked out over the rocks and ocean far below (see video), and we saw many wild goats clinging to the steep terrain. After a couple of hours, the path wound us back to a pub, where we joined other hikers for some food. We then finished the walk back at our B&B. That night we walked to a local and festive pub for dinner.
The next day, Rachelle selected the hike, which was to the highest peak in the area in the middle of the desolate moors. As we got out of the car, she showed me the description of the hike, which began, "This hike should be done on a hot summer day." Now, I will admit that it was fun; however, I would also state that the inverse of the statement might be true too - "This hike should be avoided on a frigid winter day." (see the picture of Rachelle and Noah huddled together) That said, Noah and Liv loved sliding on and cracking the ice with their shoes. Of course, when Liv broke some ice and buried her food in thick mud, we were less than thrilled. We abandoned those shoes and put her in some Wellies (rubber boots). After warming up at a pub for lunch, we did a nice walk along a river and in the woods near Lynmouth. That evening after dinner at an old smugglers' pub, Shirley and George put the kids to bed and let Rachelle and me loose for the evening. We walked down the steep path to Lynmouth and around the town and back up the path. This was fun and also great exercise because the path is probably a mile and you almost need a rope it is so steep.
Day 3 was another blue sky but cold day (hovering right around freezing). Rachelle and I had selected a hike described as "one you must do before you die" and "the number 1 best hike in the region." The 6-mile loop was incredible. The hike took us along ridges in mountains, along a river, through the woods, past a waterfall, and along the rocks on high jaggedy cliffs overlooking the sea. We saw wild goats, deer, and very few people. It was awesome.
We all voted to stay another night and had dinner at a different pub that evening. The following morning, Rachelle and I slipped out to do a quick final hike while the others had a leisurely breakfast. We left Lynton and Lynmouth before noon and decided to lunch in Glastonbury, a spiritual/hippie center and the alleged burial place of King Arthur and Guinevere. Our first stop was at the Tor, a tower on a hill, which is supposedly home to Gwyn ap Nudd, King of the Fairies. There are other myths surrounding the Tor, and people have made pilgrimages to it for centuries (http://www.glastonburytor.org.uk/). See the picture of Rachelle and Shirley near the top of the hill. We walked up the hill and back down, only then noticing that George was not with us. I was sent back up to find him, but came back empty handed. He had taken the wrong path down and had to hike around the base to find us. We headed into Glastonbury for lunch, and the town lived up to its spiritual-center reputation with every third shop selling either crystals, incense, or tobacco-water pipes. See the picture of Rachelle and kiddies by a crystal shop. We had a great lunch at a vegetarian restaurant and then wandered the town.
We headed to Bath for some badminton and relaxing. Early the next morning I took mom and George to the train station and said farewell. It was a great visit for all.
1 comment:
Dear Lindsey, It was so great to see the photographs and to read your detailed
accounts of our wonderful trip. Carolyn read the blog today and forwarded the
info to Michael and Sally. You wrote in great detail, and the only thing I could
add was that the trip exceeded our greatest expectations. We knew we would love
being with all of you, but had not expected such glorious trips every day, and
such variety also. I know why Shakespeare called England the "emerald isle"- the fields and meadows, even in winter, are amazingly green and lovely-
From the charming old villages to the cathedrals and abbeys to the walks through
the fields with sheep to the awesome hikes on the moor to the cliff walks- all
was so special and awesome. I was telling George today how I wished we could
have just kept on going day after day seeing and experiencing such wonders.
In addition, Rachelle fed us such great and healthy meals, and you were tireless in ferrying us all over England in the large rental car (especially difficult on those narrow lanes). You and the children were also wonderful in revisiting with us sites you had already seen and were so focused on making our time with you exceptional.
Thank you for it all. Love, Mom and George
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